How can I begin to describe an authentic Shanghai steamed dumpling that one does not (God forbid) gulp down or drown in chili oil or cheap plastic packets of “soy sauce” but instead is allowed to dance on one’s tongue until it decides on it’s own to release it’s sumptuous flavors of pork, chicken and savory broth? How can I explain the difference between a run-of-the-mill Hong Kong style noodle house or Dim Sum palace whether in SF’s Chinatown or Atlanta’s budding Buford Highway and a bona fide heaven-on-earth eatery like Din Tai Fung in Arcadia California?
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Even for a jaded foodie and pseudo Pirate Psychologist such as myself, Din Tai Fung fully delivers on its hallowed reputation. Practically every dish arrives looking quite simple, even coy and unpretentious, but then when eaten proceeds to perform pirouettes of goodness on one’s pirate loving palate. Similarly, there is a matter-of-factness about the servers and seating staff that borders on cavalier right up until the steaming food is brought to the table. However, now look at your server’s face. She/he is suddenly smiling ever so slightly because she/he knows what’s in store. The moment you bite into a mound of fresh garlicky green beans or shrimp topped pork shu mai there is a palpable culinary awakening afoot. After my first swallow I nearly dropped my chopsticks on the floor in a clatter and bowed in reverence while facing the glass enclosed prep kitchen. Inside, a dozen identically aproned sous chefs work deftly to cut, roll, shape and stuff the sacred Shanghai dumplings. Like Santa’s helpers in late December they could barely keep up with consumer demand. Also excellent is the chicken fried rice with green onion and dry fried pork chop over steamed rice. Multiple orders of everything is the norm here rather then the exception. A Zagat rating of 26 amid so many competing Chinese, Vietnamese, and Korean restaurants and other high end food establishments in metro Los Angeles is no small feat. It was also obvious by the long line at the door that diners are willing to fly, drive, surf, parasail and carjack their way to Din Tai Fung for the privilege. I’m not kidding. I think I saw actual Crips and Bloods gang members seated together at an adjoining table flashing gang signs and hand gestures that I interpreted to mean “This is awesome, man”. I would bet it’s the same at Din Tai Fung’s other locations including an outpost in Sydney Australia apparently surrounded by Great White sharks and poisonous jellyfish. Such obstacles do not deter a determined dumpling devotee. Food fanatics and diehard dim sum zealots much like star crossed lovers are willing to persevere and take a big risk to find true love… or in this case, lunch.

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To me, it’s quite often the simplicity and compactness of a dish (or even of a person) and then perhaps some initial hint or subtle whiff of their uniqueness (true essence) that first casts it’s lasting smell and undeniable magic spell. I only know that in my world (the domain of psychology) we call that attribute “coherence”, a seemingly sacred or divine aspect which when nurtured properly leads to happiness, joy and to a profound sense of satisfaction. That in a nutshell is what made me surrender my overblown Asian food reviewer ego and swear an oath of allegiance to Din Tai Fung.
Alas, now I am hooked like some forlorn suitor and Don Quijote-like food junkie who not only dreamt his “impossible dumpling dream” but ended up falling in dumpling love and left the restaurant supremely satisfied but also wanting more like some culinary crack addict. Yes I said love.
Love starts in the heart but germinates, grows and gives forth it’s very best fruit and/or amazingly flavorful chao fan fried rice in a consciously cultivated earthly garden of delight. If my one-of-a-kind brother Neal is correct and life truly is a “bountiful feast” meant to be enjoyed with Epicurean Zorba the Greek like gusto, then Din Tai Fung has certainly earned it’s place at my “I will never forget it” communal dining table. If that sounds a bit exaggerated, exotic, erotic or esoteric then so be it. Din Tai Fung is all of those things and more. As I fly back to Atlanta I can only close my eyes and savor the memories while hoping to return someday to once again experience scrumptious love in the form of truly authentic Shanghai dumplings ….at Din Tai Fung.
captaincliff 